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Origins
The first celebration of Mani Rimdu at the monastery of
Tengpoche seems to have taken place sometime in 1930. No recorded evidence
is available on the subject in the monastic archives. One could, however,
speak with greater certitude about the first celebration of the same sacred
drama-festival at the monastery of Thami taking place in the year 1940.
It is almost certain that after a few years of
experimentation, adjustment and self-analysis, the present pattern was evolved
and has been repeated without any change since 1950.
The monks do not have any written manuscript or notes as to
the sequence of dances. Only oral tradition must have provided the basis
for the earliest presentation. The monks of Tengpoche directly or through
their colleagues seem to have got the necessary information regarding Mani Rimdu
from the monks of the Rongphu (Rong buk) monastery situated on the northern
slope of Everest. Many inhabitants of the Khumbu valley remember having
crossed the mountain chains to witness the religious shows. As to how the
dance-drama of Mani Rimdu came to Rongphu, how it developed, and how much of it
underwent a change in form or content, will ever remain an enigma. It
appears that the Mani Rimdu contained many popular elements associated with the
Tibetan festival "cham", which itself was based on the temple-dances
connected with exorcism. The few western visitors to Tibet in the last few
centuries were all admiration for the festivals of the New Year, the Dance of
the Devils or of the Demon - Red Tiger (S Tag-dmar-ch'm) in vogue in the
pre-Buddhist "Bon" religion.
Purpose
Being essentially of a religious character (the monks put on
masks representing divine personages and in fact become divine for the moment)
Mani Rimdu easily achieves the purpose of initiating the faithful in the
fundamentals of Buddhism as practised by Sherpas. Though the sacred dramas
of the Sherpas do not have for their ultimate aim the conversion of a few
superstitious followers of Bon religion to Buddhism, they try, in every possible
manner to hold up before the spectators certain moral and ethical values.
These dramas have not been written in a casual way. Somebody has compared
the Mani Rimdu representations to the Catholic church-drama or mystery plays of
the medieval time with their stock stage-characters of the Devil and the Angels,
Virtue and Vice, the good and the evil, redemption and punishment.
Religious Significance
The question whether the first Mani Rimdu festival
occurred in 1930 or, as claimed by some people, in 1938 is of little importance
to the westerners. Perhaps, they are more interested in knowing the
significance of the name and the content of individual dance rhythms.
Originally Mani Rimdu (pronounced Mani-Ril-drup) was the official name given to
the "consecration of life" ceremony which forms the opening gambit of
the celebration. As a result of the popular shift in pronunciation "Mani
Ril-Sgrub" (Mani Ril-drup) came to be called Mani Rimdu. Besides
being the title of the opening scene of Mani Rimdu, Mani-Ril-Sgrub happens to
the name of certain special prayers offered on the occasion of the consecratory
rites as also the name of a type of "Torma" used in that sacred
function. The aforesaid prayer is not only recited during the inaugural
ceremony of the Mani Rimdu festival, but is also repeated on diverse other
occasions during the year to invoke the blessings of gods for the people of the
Khumbu region and quite often to bring down rain for thirsty fields.
Mani Rimdu is thus a "prayer ceremony" and the
dances, proper, are religiously symbolic. The spectators are invited to
witness the close relationship between the monks and the divine beings through
dance sequences. The significance of some doctrinal principles, otherwise
beyond the popular mental grasp, is clarified through dramatic action.
Those among the spectators who watch the drama with a pure heart acquire
indulgences or "sonam" (increase in the personal fund of
"Karma" or good actions).
Of the same type is the festival at the monastery of Thami.
It follows the rules of Tengpoche monastery whose priest is considered to be an
authority on such celebrations. Thus it so happens that at Junbesi and at
other small villages similar dances are enacted, though in a minor key.
The Head priest of Tengpoche and some old monks see to it
that the religious rituals are properly observed during these festivals.
The younger and the most energetic among the monks are entrusted with the actual
execution of these rituals. Three weeks before the commencement of this
annual festival, costumes and masks are taken out of the store-houses (gon-Kang),
systematically checked, mended and finishing touches given, so as to fit them to
the persons who have to wear them.
Preliminary Preparations
One day before the actual festival a dance rehearsal (tsam-ki-bulu)
is arranged without the spectators, without masks and without costumes to
synchronize the dance movements with the musical band.
The costumes are displayed on the benches in the "gompa"
in a particular order known only to the manks but in such a way as to facilitate
wearing or changing of the dress by the participants. In-fact a number of
monks are called upon to rehearse the part of different deities in the course of
thirteen "pictures" or tableau enacted for seven hours at a
stretch. The gompa (the temple of the monastery on the ground floor)
becomes for all intents and purposes the actors' Green Room in a popular
theatre. Since the dances are of a collective nature and there is no
hierarchy among the monks it would be absurd to think of providing separate
small rooms for make-up and recreation.
In the "gompa" the monks refresh themselves in
between the dance sequences with frugal food and quench their thirst with strong
"chang", which produces in them a momentary state of euphoria to be
soon replaced by the fatigue of successive dances. Although the monks are
used to high altitude living since childhood, the nearly 4,000 metres height on
which the Tengpoche monastery is situated seems to tell on them as it is not
uncommon to find them gasping for breath during very fast dance movements under
the weight of their heavy clothing and masks which impede free
respiration. This notwithstanding the fact that the monks selected for
dancing are by far the healthiest of the lot.
Duration and Time
Some decades ago the sacred drama entailed three days of
effective dancing with the participation of dozens of actors. Nowadays,
however, the dancing lasts only for a day with the maximum of 16
participants. The exact date of celebration of Mani Rimdu is fixed each
year to coincide with the full-moon of November. At times the due date
falls in the beginning of December. This period coincides with the
stoppage of work in the villages between the end of harvesting and the beginning
of the local caravan expeditions. Till recently this was the general
schedule. Changes in this time-schedule, however, are not ruled out in
future. Alternatively, the visitors have an option to witness the same
festival of Mani Rimdu at the monastery of Thami during May, just before the
monsoons break.
From 1974 onwards Mani Rimdu is being celebrated at
Tengpoche only in spring and the festival at Thami is held a few days
later. The visitors, thus, have the rare opportunity of witnessing both
the festivals in one and the same trip. The journey from one monastery to
another takes only 2 days on foot.
The Inaugural Ceremony
The first day or rather the first afternoon of the
dance-festival of Mani Rimdu is devoted to the inaugural ceremony which lasts
about three hours. It begins at about one or two o'clock and finishes with
the sunset. Since early morning the monks start preparing for it. In
the afternoon, or a little earlier, a small procession leaves the main gate of
the "Gompa" to enter the stone paved courtyard down a somewhat steep
flight of stairs. The advance party consists of standard-bearers carrying
emblems of the Tibetan Buddhism and of monastic orders, the canopy-bearers of
the Head priest, the blowers of horns (dung-chen-pa), two cymbol players (sbug-cham-pa),
two drum beaters (chos-rnga-pa), the master of ceremonies equipped with a whip (ldab-ldob),
two players on the bugle made of human bones (rkang-gling-pa), two persons
carrying incense (bsang-phor-pa) and a monk holding a metal vase containing holy
water (tu) with a peacock feather stuck in it. The Head priest walks
slowly towards the throne and occupies it. The throne is placed on a brick
structure and is draped in Chinese brocade with multi-coloured ribbons.
Nearby is an altar with customary votive offerings neatly placed in front of it,
lending an air of sanctity to the whole setting. In front of the Head
priest is the sacred chair with ritual objects: the lightning sceptre (rdo-rje
or Vajra), the silver bell (tril-bu-or ghanta), the double liturgical drum (damru
or nga-chung), the prayer book and the holy water (tu). Two assistants
help the priest in sorting out the offerings received, which generally consist
of cone-shaped "torma".
On the drapery hanging down the chairs there are
pictures of two lightning-sceptres in the form of a cross and two
"Swastikas" drawn clockwise. Swastika is derived from the
Sanskrit word "Swastha" meaning health. It has a symbolic value
and the Indians generally use it as a magical symbol or as an omen of good
fortune. The "Swastika" of the Jains is turned anti-clockwise
while the Buddhist one is clock-wise. According to some scholars it
represents the Sun in its orbit. The Swastika has also been adopted by the
Yellow sect and other reformist sects among the Buddhists in its clockwise
pattern. Among the Orthodox Buddhist sects and the pre-Buddhist Bon
religion, the Swastika is turned to the left.
On the extreme right of the Head priest sits a monk in
Chinese dress with his mask upturned. This monk will later on play a comic
part in the drama to be staged the next day. His presence in the inaugural
ceremony of consecration is obligatory. In addition, he represents long
life. Seated on the carpet in front of the Head priest are the old monks,
the nuns of Deboche, the instrument-players and two or three prominent village
landlords who have had the honour of making lavish personal offerings at the
ceremony. Then there is the heterogeneous public, either seated or
standing, consisting of Sherpa women dressed in their very best brocades, Sherpa
menfolk with their Tibetan caps and furlined overcoats, carefree children decked
up Chinese-style in miniature costumes and finally visitors from the western
hemisphere sporting dresses and hair-styles of all hues.
The main ceremony unfolds itself in four stages; first
comes the blessing ceremony in which all present are wished a long spiritual
life. This is followed by the acceptance of the ritual offerings from the
monks and the laymen; then comes the mass distribution of longevity pills and
serving of holy water and finally personal benediction by the Head priest.
The whole ceremony harks back to ideas and traditions of Bon religion because,
as has been rightly noted by L. G. Jerstad, the idea of wishing long life is not
fundamental to Buddhism as such. Thus it is the life of the spirit (bla-tshe)
that is stressed. The pills given to the faithful as a "food"
for longevity are called tshe-ril (if made with torma) and mani-rhil-bu (if made
with red-coloured rice). During the ceremony cone-shaped figures are made
out of torma (photograph 49) symbolizing deities worthy to be invoked and also
demons fit to be driven away. Special receptacles are used during
the ceremony such as "dbang-bum" the power-bestowing vase typical of
the tantric functions, the "las-bum", a ritual vase for water used in
all the Buddhist ceremonies, the "ti-bum" - a vase with a mirror, the
tshe-bum - "the vase of life" containing holy water "tu".
The simplest form of benediction with holy water is called chin-lab (Tibetan:
sbyin-rlabs). The blessing is given by a monk by pouring holy water in the
pam of the hand of "the faithful" or of the pilgrim. A small
quantity of this blessed water is tasted by the pilgrim and the rest is
sprinkled on the head by him. "Chang", the Sherpa beer, is also
used in performing certain rites. IN SUCH cases "chang" takes on
the name of "water of life" (tshe-chang). The spectators,
however, drink occasionally their own "chang" from beautiful wooden
bottles (Kye-kal). At a certain stage during the ceremony the Head priest
sprinkles the holy water with a peacock feather on all present. This
significant rite appears to be borrowed from other religions. In the
ancient Tibetan religion it was a common belief that the devil killed men after
polluting their souls. Some traces of it seem to survive paradoxically in
Tantric Buddhism, in as much as the opening ceremony of the Mani Rimdu -
"the consecration of life" - is intended, among other things, to ward
off the evil influence of the demons on things, persons, even divine beings
themselves, mountains and geographical regions. For example, in the Khumbu
region, a mountain itself is supposed to have a soul (bla) called Khumbu-Yul-Lha.
If a devil were to destroy the soul of the mountain, all inhabitants of that
region would run the risk of losing their life. One of the purposes of
Mani Rimdu is precisely to exorcise the evil forces and shield the people
against the nefarious designs of demons.
It is believed that only on one particular day during the
course of the entire year the devil has the power to attack the soul of the
mountains and the people of the Khumbu region. It is, therefore, the duty
of the priests to contrive something interesting so as to divert the attention
of the devil and make him innocuous on that particular day.
The ceremony reaches it climax with an invocation to
Padmasambhava, the apostle who is said to have come all the way from India to
Tibet to make necessary changes in Buddhism to suit the genius of the northern
people. It is followed by songs of exorcism typical of Bon religion.
In the meanwhile, the younger among the monks continue to serve hot tea to their
seniors, nuns, instrument players and to special invitees. The "Chorumba"
and the "Chorpen" (the guardians and custodians of the gompa) continue
to keep watch over everybody from a hidden corner to ensure proper execution of
tasks assigned. It is not an uncommon thing for someone to stand up during
the course of the ceremony and start rotating his prayer wheel in full public
view. The elderly wives of the Khumbu region, too, do not lag behind in
making a public demonstration of their philanthropic instincts by distributing
money among all the guests as a token of their happiness and goodwill. At
the same time some devotees are seen offering symbolic gifts to the Head priest
on traditional white cotton or silk shawls (Ka-ta, ka-gtags).
In the meantime the containers of holy water are brought and
blessed. The blessed water is then received in the hand. Similarly,
"chang" containers or the containers of the "water of life"
(tshe-chang) receive official blessings. The devotees are given a few
drops of the blessed "chang" to drink. Then the balls of "torma"
resting on the altar are distributed among the bystanders who swallow them with
obvious relish. Their distribution is a signal for the monks and the lay
devotees to get up and rush towards the High Priest for personal benediction as
a final act of the ceremony. The crowd draws near the altar in a confused
way and gets the blessings of the High Priest who places his hands on their
bowed heads. Everybody seems satisfied and pleased with the benediction
obtained.
Comes the evening. The shadows lengthen on the cool
grass, as on polar ice in the land of Eskimos. There is already a numbing
chill in the air. The procession with its "living god" -
the Boddhisattva incarnate, prepares to wend its way back to the temple.
It has an air of unreality as it moves slowly, wrapped in a halo of golden light
which makes it appear distant, although it is so near. Even to a European
or an agnostic, the scene is extremely charming and mystically
fascinating. One can imagine the impact it makes on the unsophisticated,
religious-minded Sherpas. The procession marches on, bathed in the
absolute glory of the setting sun, towards the southern wall of the monastery,
re-ascending a steep path. Then it turns round to the West and to the
North before finally entering the courtyard of the temple and from there into
the "gompa". Thus ends successfully the first day.
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